93

Antonio Galloni

Vinous

The NV Brut Collection 246 is positively stellar. It’s a terrific example of where Roederer is going with this cuvée stylistically. Brisk saline notes cut through a core of orchard fruit, mint, white pepper and slate. There are no hard angles or awkward contours. The 246 is based on 2021, an extremely tricky vintage for Champagne. Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon bumped up the percentage of Chardonnay considerably and focused on Pinots from the Montagne de Reims. About 30% of the lots underwent malolactic fermentation to soften the edges. Twenty-four percent of the wines were fermented in oak, the rest in tank. The 246 is a blend of 55% base 2021 vintage wines described above, plus 30% perpetual reserve going back to 2012 (mostly from Cumières, Vertus and Verzy) in tank and 10% young-vine juice from Cristal plots aged in cask. The final blend is 54% Chardonnay (as opposed to the more typical 44%), 35% Pinot Noir and 11% Meunier. Dosage is 7 grams per liter. More importantly, the 246 is impeccably done and absolutely delicious. 04/2025

86

Richard Juhlin

Richard Juhlin

Always the leading non-vintage champagne from the largest champagne houses here with a weak base vintage of 2021. Perpetual reserve created in 2012 together with reserve wines in oak barrels from 2010, 2013, 2015, 2017, 2018, 2019 and 2020. Fresh, house-typical and youthfully balanced but a little thinner and less impressive than previous editions. The finest side of the wine is its maritime notes of oyster shells, iodine and fresh sea breezes. A note that fascinatingly comes from the shellfish that lived in the large inland sea of the Paris Basin that dried up 30 million years ago. The ancient mollusks probably had no idea that one day a champagne guy in Sweden would refer to their bodily contribution to a drink enjoyed in 2025. Breathtaking thought. 10/2025

93

James Suckling

James Suckling

This has pretty and elegant aromas of pears, apple blossoms, grapefruit and chalk. It’s silky, fresh and beautifully balanced on the palate, with very soft bubbles. Based on 2021, with reserve wine from a perpetual reserve created in 2012, plus reserve wines kept in oak from 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016 and 2017. Drink now. 07/2025