93

Antonio Galloni

Vinous

The 2002 Brut Argonne has developed even greater richness and body since I last tasted it about six months ago. Candied orange peel, white truffles, spices, tropical fruit, honey and mint are some of the many aromas and flavors that emerge from a rich, voluptuous Champagne built on pure texture. A fleshy, resonant Champagne, the 2002 Argonne is all about breadth and expansiveness. Tasted next to the 2004, the 2002 comes across as a bit heavy and lacking freshness. My preference would be to drink the 2002 sooner rather than later, as I don't think it will ever be more beautiful than it is right now. The 2002 is 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. This bottle was disgorged on July 4, 2013. 03/2014

89

Richard Juhlin

Richard Juhlin

The 8000 bottles of this wine, requires decanting at the moment to open up its rich and beautiful bouquet. The vintage holds fine acidity and the sunny juicy rich fruit is impressive in a style resembling Vilmart. Store and enjoy when hazelnuts are joined by mushroom forest. A bit oxidised last time tasted unfortunately. 02/2025

94

David Schildknecht

Robert Parker/Wine Advocate

The first word that comes to mind in tasting Giraud’s 2002 Brut Argonne – which, as its name suggests, was initially raised in new Argonne oak barrels – is “sumptuous.” I cannot recall having previously tasted such an envelopingly and almost thickly rich Champagne. The selection of Ay Pinot Noir chosen here is more than capable of subsuming any overt influence that new oak might otherwise have bestowed on it. Lightly baked apple, quince, and marzipan inform the nose and silken, expansive, plush palate, accompanied by subtly resinous and smoky black tea. The combination of breadth, textural allure, and fine yet intensely active mousse is spine-tinglingly impressive, striking its balance between vinosity and effervescence at a remarkable high energy level. Hints of salt and iodine add interest, local color, and saliva-inducement to a powerful finishing wave of fruit and nut essences. I suspect one will be rewarded for following this 8-10 years down the pike though I confess to lack of directly relevant experience.Claude Giraud – with whom I have corresponded but have yet to meet – farms 22 acres in Ay, supplemented by purchased fruit. He has become a vocal champion of wood from the local forests of the Argonne, although oak of diverse origins fills out his extensive barrel regimen. Rich, at times positively sumptuous forceful, sometimes downright powerful Giraud’s Champagnes make a bold statement that won’t resonate with every lover of this appellation’s wines. And given their prices, even if they weren’t scarce, only a small percentage of wine lovers would be able to access them. To me, they are not just impressive – at times exceptionally so – in their own right, but illustrate the glorious stylistic malleability of Champagne’s grapes and terroirs. I’ll look forwarding to visiting Giraud next year and reporting in much more detail on his stylistic vision and projects as well as his individual cuvees. (I did not taste any recent releases from Giraud’s “Esprit de Giraud” series of tank-raised cuvees.) 11/2013