98+

Antonio Galloni

Vinous

The 1985 Barolo Riserva Monfortino captures all of the radiance of this warm vintage in its creamy, open-knit personality. An unusually succulent, plush Monfortino, the 1985 is an undeniably racy, alluring wine. Licorice, sweet pipe tobacco, mocha, leather and cedar are all laced into a core of intense dark-toned fruit. The 1985 is not the most intellectual wine in this tasting, but it is among the most thrilling. 01/2020

96

Robert M. Parker, Jr.

Robert Parker/Wine Advocate

The 1985 Barolo Monfortino possesses a deep ruby color, and a saturated bouquet of saddle leather, spices, smoked meats, herbs, and truffles. This rich, ferociously tannic, massive, backward, nearly impenetrable wine should be cellared for 8-10 years. Drink it between 2001-2025. It is a superb Monfortino. Those of you who love wine loaded with lavish new oak, sweet, crunchy fruit, and squeaky clean, simple flavors should be sure to taste this wine before you decide to buy. Though a fabulous wine, it is not for everybody. Conterno, whose wines I have followed since the mid-sixties, is unquestionably the quintessential traditionalist when it comes to Barolo. No concessions are made to modern day tastes. Consequently, his wines are among the most concentrated, as well as the most rustic and tannic. From time to time there have also been levels of volatile acidity that modern day technocrats would consider obscene, but which actually can add to the wine's complexity and character, up to a point. Giovanni Conterno is among the last to bottle his Barolos. I should note that his 1989 Barolo Cascina Francia has been bottled and may be released sooner than normal. 04/1994