90

Neal Martin

Vinous

The 2022 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru had been bottled in October 2023, just before my visit at the Domaine. It has a compact nose: mainly black cherries and crushed strawberry fruit, well-defined if maybe missing the amplitude of other Bonnes-Mares that I have tasted. The medium-bodied palate has a slightly creamy-textured opening, sweet blackberry and raspberry and touches of dark chocolate and mocha. There’s fine depth on the finish with light grip. Some wood tannins mark the finish and slightly occlude the fruit expression here. 11/2023

97

Jasper Morris

Inside Burgundy

In bottle. Made as three cuvees, then assembled. A rich mid purple with a deliciously heady bouquet, the sumptuous side of dark raspberry, perfumed yet precise, purple fruit with some redder layers beneath, a little white pepper spice, multiple layers of fruit, very engaging with just a very slight youthful bitterness. Irreproachable. Drink from 2032-2045. Tasted Nov 2023.

95

William Kelley

Robert Parker/Wine Advocate

Another cuvée that was also in bottle when I visited, the 2022 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with aromas of cherries and raspberries mingled with exotic notes and sweet forest floor. Medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy, it's concentrated and textural, with nicely integrated tannins, lively acids and a long, saline, rose-inflected finish. Its more sensual style is a welcome evolution. As I wrote last year, Jean Lupatelli took the reins at Comte de Vogüé with the 2021 vintage. Under the previous direction, which began with the 1986 vintage, the de Vogüé wines could often be chunky and unyielding. They were a critics' nightmare, as they frequently showed very well from barrel and just after bottling, only to shut down, seemingly permanently, seldom living up to one's expectations. According to old-timers, this wasn't the case with the wines made by Alain Roumier at Domaine de Vogüé up until 1985 or by his father Georges Roumier, and one of Burgundy's leading luminaries talks glowingly of drinking a case of the 1969 Musigny on release in the early 1970s. So, it seems as if the problems lay in the winery and cellar. In any case, we can certainly all agree that the terroir wasn't among them. 01/2024

98

James Suckling

James Suckling

This great Bonnes Mares starts cool and restrained, but expands rapidly as it moves over the palate, with delicate, spicy almond and cream character. Mouth-filling and generous yet subtle and light-footed, this is at the upper limit of medium-bodied. Then a huge wave of salty minerality comes through at the finish to give the wine a whole extra dimension and making this an almost overwhelming expression of beauty. Drinkable now. 06/2024