95-97

Neal Martin

Vinous

The 2023 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has an understated but fragrant bouquet, with wilted iris and violet petals infusing the detailed black and blueberry fruit. The palate is so much better than the 2022—much more intense and complex, with fine tannins and insistent grip. An assiduous touch of white pepper lingers in the mouth. Very harmonious and assured, this is a great Bonnes-Mares from de Vogüé. This is destined to give 20 years of drinking pleasure. De Vogüé's Bonnes-Mares is back. 11/2024

92-95

Jasper Morris

Inside Burgundy

Glowing purple, then a very seductive nose, deep red berry fruits with complexity, However the structure is notably firmer here, even a hint of earthiness, before the deep red fruit, with a suggestion of blackberry and black cherry, advances. Fairly concentrated. Good acidity. Drink from 2032-2038. Tasted Nov 2024.

93-94

William Kelley

Robert Parker/Wine Advocate

The 2023 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is a success, offering up aromas of cherries, sweet red berries, iris and vine smoke, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered palate that's elegantly rich and textural, with sweet tannins and a saline, perfumed finish. The renaissance at Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé continues, underlined by a beautifully sensual and perfumed 2023 portfolio. As I wrote last year, Jean Lupatelli took the reins at Comte de Vogüé with the 2021 vintage. Under the previous direction, which began with the 1986 vintage, the de Vogüé wines could often be chunky and unyielding. Lupatelli has changed all that, revising every aspect of the winemaking process. The management of harvest itself seems to be a critical step, and in 2021, he abandoned the use of large gondolas to transport the grapes from the vineyard to the winery, replacing them with small cases. There's not a new sorting table, but the domaine's must pump has been banished in favor of filling tanks by gravity. All this means that the fruit is being handled much more gently. Cooperage choices are being refined, and a new racking tank has been acquired to permit proper blending before bottling so that there is one, consistent cuvée; and of course, the details of the bottling process itself are being revised. In the vineyards, a program of gradual replanting continues. 01/2025