97

Neal Martin

Vinous

The 2021 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru shows the positive effect that winemaker Jean Lupatelli has had at this address, with this bottle far exceeding my predictions from barrel. It has a wonderful bouquet—ethereal red fruit laced with crushed stone and undergrowth, precise and quite compelling. The oak is seamlessly integrated, as are the stems. The palate is very well balanced with pliant tannins that frame the backward mainly black fruit laced with blueberry. Real mineralité, real tension and bite. This lingers so long in the mouth that you could probably read War & Peace in Russian before its residual taste disappears. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting. 09/2025

94

Jasper Morris

Inside Burgundy

The first vintage to be vinified by Jean Lupatelli, makes a fascinating contrast to the 2020, the last vintage to be vinified by François Millet – though whether this is due to stylistic choices or the differences in the vintages will need more evidence to confirm– 2022 may show us the answer. This fledgling 2021 shows a fine pure middleweight red colour, rather a peppery nose, typical of the vintage, with a layer of barrel toast on top. Graceful red fruit, some strawberry notes, elegant and long. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Sep 2023.

92-94

William Kelley

Robert Parker/Wine Advocate

Wafting from the glass with notes of wild berries, roses, exotic spices and plums, the 2021 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and perfumed, with powdery tannins, lively acids and a long, aromatic finish. The vines here are infected with leaf roll virus and produced only two barrels from over half a hectare, a derisory yield. With the 2021 vintage, Jean Lupatelli took the reins at Comte de Vogüé, which was the occasion to revisit this historic estate after a few years' hiatus. Under the previous direction, which began with the 1986 vintage, the de Vogüé wines could often be chunky and unyielding. They were a critics' nightmare, as they frequently showed very well from barrel and just after bottling, only to shut down, seemingly permanently, seldom living up to one's expectations. According to old-timers, this wasn't the case with the wines made by Alain Roumier at Domaine de Vogüé up until 1985, or by his father Georges Roumier, and one of Burgundy's leading luminaries talks glowingly of drinking a case of the 1969 Musigny on release in the early 1970s; so, it seems as if the problems lay in the cellar. In any case, we can certainly all agree that the terroir wasn't among them. 01/2023