92/94

Antonio Galloni

Vinous

An explosive, exuberant bouquet makes a strong first impression in the 2013 Charmes-Chambertin. Those signatures follow onto the palate, where the Charmes is quite opulent. Dark cherries, plums, spices and new leather blossom in a decidedly racy, supple Charmes that should drink well with minimal cellaring.

92/94

Neal Martin

Robert Parker/Wine Advocate

The 2013 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has an understated, elegant bouquet with fine delineation: bright redcurrant and pomegranate both vying for attention. The palate is underpinned by supremely fine tannins (borrowed from Clos-de-Bèze!) and very well-judged acidity. This is just a little angular for a Charmes-Chambertin at the moment, but that will harmonize by the time it is in bottle. There he is again. As I fumbled trying to open the wrought iron gate chez Rousseau, the legend that is Charles Rousseau, innings of 91 not out, exited the small cabin where he spends his day in quiet repose to help me inside. Sure, he looks a little gaunt, his gait slower and fragile, the caducity of life evident to see and yet remains the history of Burgundy made flesh, blood and charisma. Winemaker Frédéric Robert was on hand as usual to guide me through the barrels, always one of the most candid vignerons in Burgundy. Before embarking upon the tasting he mentioned that the fate of the village cru vines from Château de Gevrey has not been decided, choosing to wait until quality reaches a level where it will merit joining their portfolio (no pressure for the vines there then.) However, one parcel owned by the economically-titled ‘Ng’ family has now augmented their plot of Lavaux Saint Jacques. Like many winemakers, Frédéric was somewhat surprised and relieved to find how well their 2013s had turned out, although he cautioned that the barrels can change from day to day (and with this in mind I often tasted from two or three to aim for a representative sample blend.) Here they commenced the harvest on October 1 - as is customary a little earlier than other growers, some of whom unsheathed their secateurs around four days later. But he told me that the fruit seemed to have reached its full ripeness level and with the impending gloomy forecast felt there was little point in waiting. And like others, he found the malolactic fermentation stubbornly slow, though most had finished by the end of May.