95-98

Stephen Tanzer

Vinous

Opaque deep ruby. Incredible nose of blackberry, black licorice, black pepper, spices and smoke; an essence of pinot noir's dark side. Offers mindboggling density and solidity, but with its fine grain the overall impression is of sweetness and class. Wonderfully layered, profound wine whose lush tannins are inundated by a wave of blackberry and spices. It's hard even to find Chambertin as good as this. Philippe notes that these vines, originally planted in 1885, are situated in the lieu-dit Aux Charmes, on rock. The crop level in 2005 was just under 35 hectoliters per hectare.

97/98

David Schildknecht

Robert Parker/Wine Advocate

From vines said to have been planted in the 1880s, the Roty 2005 Charmes Chambertin Tres Vieilles Vignes announces its distinction a foot away from the glass, with uncanny intensity and clarity of black fruit essences, along with ineffable mineral and animal suggestions. Tactile cinnamon spiciness, bitter-sweet herbs, and black cherry and black raspberry concentrate (fresh, yet with liqueur-like intensity, sweetness and viscosity) saturate the palate, and a dark and rising tide of mineral and carnal flavors meets the fruit and spice in a thunderous finish. There is mystery aplenty here, with the sex appeal well beneath the surface.Philippe Roty and his brother have matters well in hand and are on their way to bottling (as always here, unfiltered) a superb collection of 2005s. That said, this won’t even begin happening until late Spring and some wines may not be bottled until year’s end. (Wines followed above by the initials P.R. are from Philippe’s vines and will be labeled with his name.) Prolonged skin contact and gentle but relentless extraction are the practice here, and in 2005 that has made for Pinots of almost shockingly deep color, abundant and firm but fine tannins, and terrific overall intensity.