94

Ian D'Agata

Vinous

(81% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc, and 9% merlot; pH 3.69; IPT 60; 12.2% alcohol; 76% new oak; a 79% selection): Bright red with a pale rim. Knockout nose of aromatic herbs, strawberry, sweet spices and acacia flower; yet another wine strongly marked by its cabernet franc presence. Fresh and vibrant, this absolutely dances on the palate with strawberry, sour red cherry and raspberry flavors complicated by gunflint and herbs. High acidity provides great clarity and cut to the long, floral, smoothly tannic finish. This has improved considerably with bottle age. Harvested from September 18 through October 3, this Mouton offers amazing balance and fragrance. In 1990 Mouton was still using a heavy toast for its barriques, which resulted in a smoky quality in the wines that was considered by many to be just as typical of Mouton as its opulence. "But we began turning things back in 1993, as we saw that our 1992 was a little unbalanced from the use of heavily toasted barrels," said Tourbier remarks. 94.

87

Robert M. Parker, Jr.

Robert Parker/Wine Advocate

Considering the vintages and the estate, Mouton's performances in 1989 and 1990 are puzzling. I have tasted these wines multiple times since my last reviews appeared in print. The 1990 is a hard, lean, austere, tannic style of Mouton that I predict will never shed enough tannin to attain complete harmony and balance. The wine exhibits a deep ruby color, less noticeable sweet oak than it possessed 2-3 years ago, hints of ripe blackcurrant fruit, and an attenuated, angular, tough style that is uncharacteristic of this chateau's winemaking, as well as the character of the 1990 vintage. This wine needs at least 10-15 years of cellaring, but don't expect a balanced Mouton when the tannin fades away - the wine is not that concentrated. In the context of a great vintage, Mouton's 1990 is a disappointment. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2020.