95

Neal Martin

Robert Parker/Wine Advocate

The 2011 Musigny Grand Cru has a fragrant, floral, understated bouquet that is beautifully defined and focused. With time in the glass it offers subtle forest floor and damp soil scents that merely add to its complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins and exquisite balance. It tiptoes across the senses rather than delivering a payload of flavors, while the finish offers extraordinary precision and nuance. It is a long-term wine of immense density – deceptively so.I was delighted to return to the home of Frederic Mugnier in the cluster of houses that make up the village of Chambolle, his perhaps the grandest and most imposing. Those are not adjectives that would describe the man himself, ever congenial and humble when I met him at the domaine. I was there to taste his 2012s in barrel, but with some free time before my next appointment he kindly offered to show me his bottled 2011s. This is a producer whose wines I have warmed to in recent years. When I commenced my Burgundy odyssey in the 1990s I felt that his wines were outshone by his neighbor Christophe Roumier and felt that they did not quite reach their full potential. However, in recent vintages Frederic has really honed his style and to me he seems more comfortable with the level of new wood that he is using, even countenancing the idea of a grand cru sans new oak. The wines seem “happier,” as banal as that sounds. But they just sang from bottle with freshness, verve, personality and charm – facets of a great Burgundy wine. Most of these cuvees would have been allocated on release, but I am sure some 2011s remain available and they come highly recommended.