92

Neal Martin

Vinous

The 2006 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 12 after ten days of clement weather when two deluges, 60mm then 40mm, fell within 24 hours after the Merlot had been picked. The dilemma was whether to expedite the picking of the Cabernets, though Alexandre Thienpont decided to risk it and waited. Consequently, he lost two-thirds of the crop to wait but believes the surviving one-third was worth it. Though not a huge fan of this vintage in Bordeaux, this is certainly one of its few outright successes. Black fruit, pencil shavings and touches of desiccated orange peel and prune unfold on the nose without the bravura of the preceding vintage, yet detailed and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, riper than many of its Right Bank peers, and has a very slight viscosity towards the finish. Notes of raspberry, strawberry, a hint of fig and a dash of spice linger on the aftertaste. This is a more austere VCC, though drinking very well now, but it has the substance to age. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium. 06/2024

96

Aldo Fiordelli

James Suckling

Youthful nose, where typical eucalyptus leaf is allied to licorice root, blond pipe tobacco, cedar wood and balsamic complexity. Dense, full-bodied palate with elegant, velvety tannins that are soaked in almost salty flavors. Refreshing acidity and an amazingly long, broad and balanced finish with plenty of structure. Such a great, classy wine and impressively close to the 2005. Best from 2026. 06/2024